Frequently Asked Questions

We install solid hardwood, engineered hardwood, and wide-plank flooring in a wide range of species including oak, maple, cherry, walnut, and more. We can help you choose the right wood and finish for your space and budget.

Most residential installations take 2–5 days depending on the square footage, subfloor condition, and finish type. We'll give you a clear timeline during your estimate so you can plan accordingly.

Yes — the work area needs to be clear of furniture before we arrive. We're happy to advise on the best way to stage your home during the project.

Yes, with the right species and installation method. Engineered hardwood is generally the best choice over radiant heat systems. We'll assess your setup and recommend the most suitable option.

If your floors have deep scratches, gouges, or significant discoloration, a full sand and refinish is usually needed. If the finish is just dull or lightly worn, a screen and recoat may be enough. We'll assess your floors during the estimate and give you an honest recommendation.

A full sand and refinish typically takes 3–5 days including drying time between coats. You'll want to stay off the floors for at least 24 hours after the final coat, and avoid heavy furniture for 72 hours.

Solid hardwood floors can typically be refinished 5–10 times over their lifetime, depending on the thickness of the boards. Engineered hardwood can usually be refinished 1–3 times. We'll let you know what's possible for your specific floors.

We offer oil-based polyurethane, water-based polyurethane, and hardwax oil finishes in matte, satin, and semi-gloss sheens. Each has different durability, dry time, and appearance characteristics — we'll walk you through the options.

In many cases, yes. We can replace damaged boards and blend the repair into the surrounding floor. Whether a full refinish is needed depends on the age and finish of your existing floors — we'll be upfront about what will and won't match.

Yes. Squeaks are usually caused by boards rubbing against each other or against the subfloor. We can diagnose the cause and apply the appropriate fix — whether that's face-nailing, adding screws from below, or applying a lubricant between boards.

It depends on the extent of the damage. Minor cupping or staining can often be corrected with sanding and refinishing. Severe warping or rot may require board replacement. We'll assess the damage and give you an honest evaluation of your options.